August 2001
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EATING
HEALTHY
Summer's Jell-O Alternative:
Agar Agar
ROBIN ASBELL
THEY HAVE BECOME the symbol of the anti-gourmet,
a humorous throwback that belongs in church basement potlucks alongside hot dish.
The unnaturally bright and supernaturally sweet Jell-O mold is a kid pleaser, and
a fond memory of my own childhood. We had a special Tupperware mold that had pop-in
insets for the top, so we could pick from a star, a heart, or a few other shapes.
My Mom made it a big honor to pick the Jell-O flavor and shape, and to carefully
unmold it. Getting it out of the complicated mold in one piece was cause for great
pride. Now that I avoid gelatin because it’s made from animal hooves, it rarely occurs
to me to make Jell-O. The Asian answer to a nostalgic craving is kanten, a version
of Jell-O made with agar agar sea vegetable. In the heat of the summer, gelled foods
can be refreshing and also quite fortifying, with additions like tofu, yogurt, cottage
cheese, or nut butters.
Agar agar is a gelling agent made from a combination of algaes from the
species gelidium. Other names include dai choy goh, Japanese isinglass, or kanten,
in reference to the dish in which it is commonly used. The name, agar agar, is Malaysian
in origin, and the harvest of the long red and purple fronds goes back hundreds of
years. The fronds are freeze dried and dehydrated naturally, producing colorless
sheets which are shaped into bars. Agar is available in the traditional bars, flakes,
and powder, all of which can be used interchangeably for gelling purposes. Long strands
of agar are one of the ingredients in the seaweed salad served at sushi restaurants.
Like the other sea vegetables, agar is a good source of iodine (100 grams agar has
160 milligrams of iodine), as well as some calcium and iron. It has no calories,
and according to Paul Pitchford, promotes digestion and weight loss, treats hemorrhoids,
and carries toxic and radioactive waste out of the body. It is cooling in nature,
and reduces inflammations and other heat conditions as described in traditional Chinese
medicine.
Instead of mixing Jell-O with synthetic whipped topping and canned fruit, try gelling
just about any refreshing liquid–even coffee, or chai tea. Make a gel of it. Is your
morning smoothie routine getting old? Dissolve some agar and make a pudding of it,
to eat with a spoon on hot mornings. Iced tea is cooling, but tea kanten is filling,
too. The rainbow of juices available in concentrate or bottled form makes the variety
of fruit gels endless–from raspberry juice with fresh bananas in summer, to spiced
cider with cranberries in fall. Creamy and higher protein snacks can be made with
purees of tofu, lowfat cottage cheese, or fat free yogurt.
Macrobiotic recipes often add body to the kanten by adding some tahini or almond
butter. The savory aspic has never really caught on here, perhaps because we only
associate gels with Jell-O. For a change of pace, a savory vegetable mold can be
served like salad, and dressed with vinaigrette. Vegetable or meat stocks can be
gelled to hold assorted tidbits for a traditional aspic. Tomato or fresh vegetable
juices can be jelled for a smooth and cooling terrine. For a showy garnish, gel some
savory juices in a square pan, then unmold and dice the juice to scatter over chilled
vegetable salads.
The mechanics of cooking with agar differ slightly from those of gelatin. Generally,
powdered agar can be substituted in equal measure for powdered plain gelatin. In
substituting agar for gelatin, remember that agar may not set when mixed with vinegar
or foods high in oxalic acid, like spinach, chocolate, or rhubarb. Agar gelled liquids
will stay solid at room temperature, while gelatin will eventually melt. To use agar
bars, rinse them in cold water, wring them out and tear in small pieces, then add
to the cooking liquid. One agar bar is equal to four tablespoons of flakes or two
teaspoons of powder, and one bar or its equivalent will gel two cups of liquid. Unlike
gelatin, all forms of agar need to simmer for a while to dissolve, and letting them
soak in the liquid for an hour or two gives you a head start.
The following recipes can be made with gelatin, if you have no aversion to
eating hooves, using the measurements for powdered agar. So dig out that old Jell-O
mold and get creative–without the Technicolor jiggle.
Creamy Cherry Pudding
Use 5 tablespoons agar for a firm texture, or 3 for soft and creamy.
5 tablespoons agar flakes
1 cup cherry fruit juice concentrate
1 package Mori Nu silken extra firm lite tofu, or 1-1/2 cups cottage cheese
1/2 cup yogurt or soy yogurt
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon rind, grated
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1-1/2 cups cherries, pitted
Sprinkle agar over juice concentrate in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, until agar dissolves. In blender or food processor, puree tofu or cottage cheese completely, scraping down and processing until smooth. Add yogurt, honey, vanilla, lemon zest and juice and puree to mix, then add agar mixture and process.
Chill the mixture for an hour, then fold in cherries and scrape into a 4 cup mold or bowl. Chill until firm. To unmold, dip mold in hot water for 2 minutes, put a plate on top and flip over.
Agar Fruit Jam
Serves four
3 tablespoons agar flakes
1/3 cup fruit juice
2 cups fruit, mashed or chopped
1/2 cup sweetener
1 teaspoon lemon juice
In a medium saucepan, stir agar and juice and bring to a simmer. When agar is dissolved, add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then pour into sterilized jars and seal. Keep refrigerated for up to a month.
Robin Asbell is owner and chef of Natural Foods Chef In Home Catering Services
and has over 15 years experience in the natural foods industry. Her natural foods
cooking classes are offered at Whole Foods Market, Kitchen Window, Edina Continuing
Education, The Marsh, and Williams Sonoma. Member, International Association of Culinary
Professionals. 612-724-5107; email asbellr@black-hole.com.
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2001 Twin Cities WELLNESS newspaper.
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