September
2001
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FROM THE EDITOR
Sweetgrass Cove
on Superior's North Shore–
a magical retreat that sweetens the soul
Lynn S. La Froth
BEFORE I OPENED my eyes, the smell of sweetgrass wafting in on the fresh morning
breeze and sound of gentle lapping waves, welcomed me to my retreat on the North
Shore of Lake Superior. The braid of sweetgrass that hung over each of our beds set
the stage for a magical visit to Sweetgrass Cove near Grand Portage, Minnesota.
Rick Anderson, owner of Sweetgrass Cove Guest House and Bodywork Studio, who told
us that according to Indian custom, sweetgrass "invites in the sweetness of
life," later showed us how to identify this fragrant grass among other weeds
and wildflowers and how to braid it, to then be placed somewhere auspicious in one's
space. You see, not only is Anderson a bed and breakfast owner, he's a student of
herbalism, a world traveler, a tour guide, and last but not least: an adept bodyworker.
Sweetgrass Cove, a secluded and private guest house attached to the main residence,
is located directly on the rocky shores of Lake Superior about 15 minutes from the
Canadian border on the Grand Portage Indian Reservation. "This is my life's
work," said Anderson. "I've always wanted to do an overnight accommodation
B & B, sharing this place and the Lake Superior environment as long as I can
remember. It's taken me forever to get here though."
The "forever" means worldwide travel beginning in 1969 at 18 when he first
went to Europe, then hitchhiking to southern Morocco and on to Istanbul. "My
soul was infused with this thing to travel," he said. "In 1975, I got a
job on a Norwegian cruise ship–pre-Love Boat days–and started working as a deck steward,
working my way up the ranks to purser, when I left in 1985. Then in '85, I worked
for American Express in travel related services. I would do 110-day circumnavigation
cruises, leading land tours as a guide, and traveling to all parts of the world including
Southeast Asia, China, India, Nepal, South America. This was where I got into bodywork
and for really cheap! A massage in China was $8 as well as other therapies such as
acupuncture and acupressure. One of our ships had The Golden Door Spa aboard which
would charge $3,800 per week for guests that also introduced me into the world of
spa services."
After working for many years as a land guide, Anderson, an enrolled member of the
Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa, returned to what he always considered
"home," for–what was to be–a transition period in his life. For a couple
of years he managed the Grand Portage Lodge–pre-Casino days, piloted a boat to Isle
Royale, and "loved this reservation life," he said. "It felt like
I was living in a foreign country, a world apart, not your typical America. I love
the cultural legacy of the way Indian things work–slow, deliberate, mindful.
"After an arduous, yet fulfilling, two years as general manager of the Lodge,
I left that position and went back to sea aboard a Greek cruise ship and absolutely
hated it; it was extremely stressful for me, so came home and began with other companies
doing air tours. I still do those air tours periodically. One of my most recent tours
turned into a bodywork tour and my clients were introduced to traditional Thai massage
by monks, acupressure massage in Hong King, and ayurvedic massage and bodywork in
India. The bodywork became the highlight of our around the world tour."
Not only has Anderson's professional life been one of transition and transformation,
but his personal life reflects these aspects as well. His "coming out"
process not only had to do with his being Native American, but with being gay. Embracing
his Indian heritage was fundamental to his own acceptance of being gay. "Gayness
is an attribute of your soul; it's part of one's basic nature. Sexuality is just
a part of it." Traditional native society has named this attribute as "twin
spirited" and believes this to be a gift which the only choice one has in the
matter is to either accept the gift or reject it. To accept it was to assume the
role of "go-between," not only between different worlds, races, places,
but of the genders as well. I do feel that I have been blessed in my life and have
been able to often go between seemingly incompatible places and situations with comfort
and ease. This is part of my Indian legacy, my heritage, so to speak, and a role
I accept with humility. I enjoy working with community members in several projects
and in particular working with the kids in planting and cultivating ceremonial tobacco
and heirloom gardens."
About 10 years ago, Anderson worked himself to exhaustion resulting in borderline
depression and the necessity for self-healing. "I dragged my butt back home
and proved this is indeed a place of healing…and that started the process and the
creation of my dream. I spent much time reclaiming this area as my home. I not only
wanted to provide an overnight accommodation but I wanted it to be a day spa where
bodywork and other therapies were available. I wanted to learn massage therapy and
to learn about the wellness that I'd already embraced in my life. I decided that
I wanted to become certified in massage and so I enrolled in a course taught through
Esalen Institute in Big Sur, California which was being taught in a wonderful retreat
center in British Columbia called Hollyhock Farm."
Sweetgrass Cove has a bodywork room attached to the guest house where I enjoyed Anderson's
specialty regimen: A sea salt scrub (from Dead Sea salts) prior to popping into a
traditional Finnish sauna just a stone's throw from the guest house's back door.
Growing up Finnish and enjoying the family traditions of our grandfather's home-made
old country Finnish sauna "at the lake," I re-experienced a return to childhood
and the healing traditions of my own heritage with the sauna's wood burning stove,
pouring balsam-soaked water over volcanic rocks for steam, with lots of loofahs,
scrubbies, and castile soap.
While waiting for the next phase of my cleansing treatment, I lounged on the wooden
swing next to the sauna on one of the large volcanic rocks through which purple and
white and yellow wildflowers popped through cracks offering tiny bouquets for the
soul. Or, if one so desired, a double hammock nearby offered another relaxation place
for listening to the seagulls caw, with the background cadence of Lake Superior's
incessant murmur, soothing the soul. The newest addition to this regimen of wellness
is the outdoor hot tub nestled amid the spruce and blueberry bushes. Sunflower seed
in the nearby feeders drew about half-dozen chipmunks who seemed non-fazed by my
presence and Anderson said if one is still and patient enough, they'll eat out of
your hand. The last step in the 90-minute scrub/massage treatment was the massage
which, if you're like me, puts you "out there" very quickly.
If you don't want to put up your feet, relax on the deck overlooking the lake, listen
to the waves and watch the gulls swoop, there's a lot to do in this area. Bikes are
available for rental nearby. There's the fort–Grand Portage's National Monument–worth
checking out; there's kayaking, hiking on the many trails, as well as trekking to
the highest waterfall in Minnesota just down the road, walking the beach, exploring
the nearby Susie Islands, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, taking a trip to Thunder
Bay with its many attractions, or ferrying over to Isle Royale, among many, many
other things.
One of the magical moments we enjoyed was our guided trek by Anderson, whose lightness
of foot appeared as if he was floating along the trail, to the Witch Tree where now,
only band member-accompanied visits, are allowed. The boreal forest we trekked through
is one of the only moss-covered forests left in Minnesota and it, along with the
incredible energy at the Witch Tree that sits atop a precipice overlooking Lake Superior,
was spectacular. This place is sacred to the Indians and is beyond my ability to
speak of it. Other special areas include Mt. Josephine, which Anderson describes
as a "very sacred place."
The introductory rate for the guest house is $95 per night which includes a hearty,
nutritious breakfast. Weekend and weekly rates are also available. Anderson's wellness
orientation includes buying organic juices and grains, patronizing local vendors
for award-winning local maple syrup, organic eggs, meat, or produce. He'll clue you
in on where the healthy restaurants in the area are including–and not to be missed–Angry
Trout Café and The Naniboujou–nearby in or on the way back to Grand Marais.
I must tell you about the Angry Trout. If you like freshwater netted fish caught
daily with extremely fresh organic produce, free-range chicken, made with area fresh
herbs and spiced to perfection, don't miss Angry Trout Café on the waterfront
in Grand Marais. The locally baked breads are out of this world. Angry Trout has
an interesting ambiance as the owners believe in "community" as a concept
and have not only gathered together local producers and suppliers as their food vendors
but have also supported the many local artisans who have created everything from
the furniture to the art on the walls and the flowers on the tables.
Anderson provides massage for $50 for one hour, or with a combination of wild-crafted
herbal wrap for $85. The scrub/massage is $65. After your long drive up, you might
ask for a chair massage ($1/minute). The sauna and hot tub are always at the disposal
of guests anytime they desire. Other therapies from area practitioners are available
in the bodywork studio but must be reserved in advance. You may also request a "silent
retreat" and Anderson will accommodate any special needs to make your retreat
what you want it to be. Not handicapped accessible.
Visit Sweetgrass Cove online at www.sweetgrasscove.com. For a brochure, call 1-866-475-2421 or ricka@sweetgrasscove.com. Anderson, the perennial explorer of the world who ended
up back home, concluded our interview with a quote from T.S. Eliot.
We shall not cease from exploration,
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
"This is what I want to do here; see it new for the first time from other people's
eyes," said Anderson, who will keep traveling back home anew through the eyes
of others.
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2001 Twin Cities WELLNESS newspaper.
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